Tastefully reviewed by John on Friday, July 24, 2009.
Although I am still not sure if it is the playing card themed table cloths, the surfboards and Christmas lights hanging from the ceiling or the delectably juicy quesadillas that come out of the kitchen screaming to be devoured as quickly as possible, but I feel right at home whenever I make it to Carlos O’Connor’s in Red Bank.
The restaurant is tucked away on Monmouth Avenue near a fantastic little wine shop, an olive oil shop and a little hideaway that promises melt in your mouth cheese steaks for lunch. Although it’s not the winner of the title for the most unassuming storefront in Red Bank, it is pretty close. When you walk in the front door of the restaurant, the first thing you notice is the Mexican carnival-esque atmosphere that combines the relaxed feel of a San Diego beach bar, with a summer backyard barbeque.
Less than a minute after walking in, one of the busy waitresses enthusiastically greets us and leads us over to a small table for two along a far wall. Painting an exact picture of what is inside O’Connor’s is no easy task. In addition to the aforementioned surf boards and Christmas lights there are dozens of pictures, paintings, wine bottles, mirrors, lamps, and window shutters – yes window shutters decorating the walls and ceiling. Interior designers are paid handsome salaries to duplicate the feel of this little hole in the wall on the chain restaurant scale.
After our waitress opens our bottle of wine (a light, refreshing 2007 Mencia from Montereii, Spain which we brought from home since O’Connor’s is a bring your own) she dutifully runs away to take care of other, more pressing matters are nearby tables. As Tiffany and I went over the menu we managed to take in a little additional light reading – underneath the plastic covers to the tables are notes, pictures, greetings and other various pieces of napkin artwork left behind by satisfied patrons of O’Connor’s past.
When it came time to order, we went with an old standby to start – guacamole and chips and I also ordered an appropriately salty and equally delicious chicken based soup with hominy and hints of mole. The guac came out texturally perfect with a good amount of cilantro – which is always a bonus in my book. And if you aren’t as big of a fan of cilantro as me, then dip your warmed chips into a mild your choice of two different, but equally mild salsas.
Just as we were finishing our first courses, the entrees hit the table – which is probably a good thing. Normally I would be a little bent out of shape when I am rushed through a meal, but the pace was perfect as it didn’t allow me the time to realize how full I was actually getting. And, when you are at a neighborhood BYO that has more beach items hanging from the ceiling than tables to sit at, a timing miscue in between courses is the farthest thing from your mind.
I ordered the Quesadilla Acapulco and Tiffany had the Quesadilla Verde. Both entrees came with the standard Jersey Gringo-Mexican sides – rice, refried (or black) beans, sour cream and a tiny salad. Although my quesadilla did not transport me to a resort in Mexico, it was delicious. In addition to cheese, guacamole and onions, it was stuffed with more than a handful of baby shrimp. What pleased me most about the dish was that shrimp were grilled and the smoky flavor stood out as the integral part of the dish cutting through the cheese and veggies. Tiffany’s meatless quesadilla verde was equally delicious – stuffed with sautéed mushrooms, onions, bell peppers, cheese, spinach and garlic. There might have been another garden goodie stuffed in there that I missed, but it didn’t matter – it was spectacular.
We were debating desert when we finally decided on the Apple Chimichanga. My hopes were sky high – anything apple, anytime of the year brings a smile to my face. Dessert was very good, although it brought back the taste of a childhood delight that I haven’t had in years – the Hostess Apple Pie. Warmed and crispy on the outside with gooey spiced apple filling, dessert was what the doctor ordered. After finishing the accompanying vanilla ice cream, it was time to throw in the towel. Sadly, a cot was not one of the fixtures accessorizing the dining room or I would just be waking up from a nap in the kitchen.
Have I overstated the virtue of simplicity in cooking? Perhaps. But simplicity can be the forsaken ingredient in many Jersey restaurants – especially at inexpensive BYOs. Nothing frustrates me more than being underwhelmed at an overhyped restaurant because flavor and texture are lost in the translation of a convoluted recipe. Not on this casual rainy, Thursday night at Carlos O’Connor’s, where the simple was transformed into the extraordinary.
Carlos O'Connors
31 Monmouth Street
Red Bank, New Jersey 07701
732.530.6663
