The Wine
Chateau D’Arlay ‘Corail’ 2009 – Cotes du Jura, France
The Place
Located in the commune of Arlay in the Jura, the vineyards are situated near the Castle of Arlay which was built in the Middle Ages. Closer to Switzerland than the rest of France, the Jura is a winemaking area that isn’t seen much in the United States. Capable of producing subtle, nuanced and lighter wines, it’s a region worth seeking out.
The Producer
Since 1960, the Laguiche family has maintained and overseen the winery operations at Chateau D’Arlay. Using five varietals for their wines – Pinot Noir, Trousseau, Poulsard, Chardonnay and Savignin, Alain expresses the typicity and sense of place that is found within the Jura. This is not an area that produces saturated, overly fruity styles wine. Instead, the marginal climate and limestone rich soils yield wines that are much lighter and more fragrant than those found in more accommodating areas.
Laguiche holds the wine back for a few years upon release. The wine is aged in old (neutral) oak barrels for four years, then another in bottle before release. The current vintage is indeed 2004.
What Does it Taste Like?
Upon first glance, the wine is more the color of an under-steeped serving of Earl Grey tea or severely under ripe Nebbiolo. The nose confirms that what’s in the glass is in fact wine. White pepper, dried cherries and lemony (in red wine??) jump out of the glass. On the palate, dried bing cherries and copious amounts of chalkiness dominate. Acidity is bright and refreshing, but not off-putting in the least. Although the finish isn’t terribly long, it’s full of minerals and dried cranberry fruit. As Old World as Pinot Noir gets and more fragrant and expressive than most efforts I have had from Jura.
A word to the wise when pairing food with this wine – keep the dish light. Avoid creams or rich sauces as the wine will be completely muted by the food. Imagine a beautifully baked or sautéed piece of cod drizzled with lemon and light herbs. Bingo!
How Much Does it Cost?
This wine is incredibly hard to find in the retail market. I had it last night at dinner with friends. My best guess would that it would retail for around $20-$25.
